31. Traveling by Sleeper Van (Part 7), 25% with Tongariro Mountain
I was heading
to the next city that I thought was interesting, driving along the western
coastline. So, the view on the left was the vast, desolate sea. Normally, when
I was in this mood, I drove at a speed of about 70. Not because I was afraid of
driving fast, but because I didn't know why I should hurry when the view while
driving was so pleasing to the eyes. I hardly ever turned on the air
conditioning in this car, and I didn't even know if it still works well. Maybe
it was because I got it in winter, and it was still spring at that time, which
I felt still cold. Just cracking the driver's window about 1-2 centimeters was
enough to get a breath of fresh air from outside.
As the sun began to set, I started
looking for a place to stay. I didn't ask for much, just a parking spot that
wasn't too muddy and a bathroom to use in the morning. As for food, if I didn't
mind a lack of novelty and exquisite taste, I had plenty. I also had a full
tank of drinking water, and I had prepared spare gasoline and engine oil. I
needed to check the engine oil level and refill it regularly for long trips
like this. If the car were in normal condition, it wouldn't run out so quickly.
But it was just a temporary fix, and I might have to spend a bit more on engine
oil.
For
today, I came across a cliff by the seaside, adjacent to a very quiet village.
The parking spot where I plan to park tonight was merely a viewpoint where I
felt safe, even though my car was the only one parked there. I just love the
feeling of waking up in the morning, brewing hot coffee, and drinking it with
an apple or bread. At the same time, I sit and watch the nature around me—the
sun, the sea, the sound of birds, the green grass, and the perfect blend of
things that no one designed because they just happened naturally. This feeling
is so charming. Sometimes, I feel like I'm addicted to these things, things
that I don't have to exert effort or make any attempt to obtain. I just sit
still and let my mind drift with the scene in front of me.
From there, I continued my journey to
the famous Tongariro mountain range, known for being a filming location for the
movie Lord of the Rings. Actually, I'm not a die-hard fan; I'd just heard
people talk about it. The reason I came here was to meet a friend I had met in
Wanganui. He had mentioned he was working at a backpackers' hostel around here,
and since it was on my way, I decided to stop by and see him.
We strolled along the paths,
exchanging information. In my view, this place is quite popular with tourists,
even though the weather was still chilly. After parting ways with my friends, I
didn't have any specific plans on where to go next, except to wait for the hike
tomorrow. Normally, it takes a whole day to walk across the mountain range from
one side to the other. Tourists have to park their cars on one side and then
walk to the other side before returning to get their cars, either with other
tourists or by using the local bus service.
At that time, it was three in the
afternoon with a gloomy and rainy atmosphere, which is typical for the early
spring. So, I thought it would be a good idea to explore the starting point for
tomorrow's hike. With that in mind, I left the city and headed toward the
starting point of the Tongariro mountain range.
When I arrived at the parking lot, I
noticed two cars parked there, with no one in them. There were clear signs
prohibiting fires and overnight stays. In a volcanic area like this, there
might be some gasses with flammable properties, and the prohibition on
overnight stays is likely for safety reasons.
Actually, when I arrived, it was
already late afternoon. So, I thought, well, I might as well take a walk to
kill some time since I didn't know what else to do. I figured I would walk a
bit and then walk back, and tomorrow I could go up again more seriously.
Because anyway, if I were to be serious now, it would probably be too late.
Normally, I'd heard it takes about 6-8 hours to cross from one side to the
other.
I started walking leisurely, with the
surrounding scenery consisting of rocky slopes, and a stream flowing not far
from the path. I didn't notice many plants, perhaps because it had just passed
through a winter season covered in snow. Although the snow has mostly melted
now, if you look up at the mountain peak, you can still see some snow cover,
even if it doesn't blend in completely. I walked on until I reached a spring,
which is water that bursts out due to underground pressure. At first, I thought
it would be hot, but when I touched it with my hand, I found it was just
ordinary cold water.
After walking past that point for a
while, I had the chance to meet three travelers walking toward me. They must
have started their journey from the other side in the morning. When we stopped
to chat, they were surprised to see me alone in an outfit that didn't seem
suitable for climbing a mountain, as I was wearing jeans and ordinary shoes.
Meanwhile, they had both winter jackets and raincoats, along with shoes
specifically designed for walking on snow. They advised me not to go up,
especially in this outfit, because the weather up there was extremely harsh.
They even showed me a video recorded on their phone, which depicted a mix of
rain, wind, and snow. Yes, it did look really harsh. So, I told them that I
wasn't planning to walk all the way up; I just wanted to take a walk as
practice for tomorrow.
After parting ways with them, I
continued on my path. A thought flashed through my mind, "Isn't that
enough... "Tomorrow, just come back," another voice would counter,
"Just a little more, you're almost at the point where you'll touch the
snow for the first time. Look, it's not far now." From there, the distance
that was once flat began to steepen. If I estimate by feeling, I'd probably
been walking for almost an hour now. And since I met those three, I hadn't
encountered anyone else coming down. The atmosphere was gloomy because it was
an overcast evening. I encouraged myself to walk a little more and a little
more, to reach the point where I could see the white ice blocks.
To be honest, I'm not someone who can
tolerate the cold very well, even though I do enjoy the winter atmosphere. And
although I've never actually touched real snow and would like to try it at
least once, imagining myself walking in the snow still makes me feel a bit
apprehensive. Nevertheless, I pushed myself to an area where there were still
some ice crystals that hadn't completely melted, and finally, I got to touch
naturally formed ice for the first time. And even though it wasn't real snow,
it was still very satisfying for me.
When I looked up the path that would
lead to the higher ridge, I couldn't see more than 50 meters ahead because the
top was completely shrouded in mist. From where I stood, the desire to climb
higher had faded away. This was probably because I felt I had already
experienced what I had been curious about. Another reason was that I questioned
myself about why I would need to put myself through such hardship when I was
already satisfied with where I stood. Alright! It's time to walk back.
Even though I was able to walk faster
on the way back than on the way up, the setting sun didn't make me feel like I
was making good time. My phone's battery was completely dead, which means the
idea of using the flashlight from my phone was also out of the question.
However, I had already passed the steep mountain section when it got completely
dark. By "completely dark," I mean so dark that I could barely see
anything. Fortunately, there were still wooden paths to walk on, so at least I
was confident I wasn't straying off the path. But the real thrill came when the
wooden path ended, and it was just a regular gravel path.
In an environment devoid of any large
trees, with only patches of grass and lines of gravel, in a moonless and
overcast sky, I could hardly tell if I was walking on the designated path or
had strayed off it. Anxiety began to build up, and I couldn't help but chuckle
at myself (how did we end up here?). But my feet kept moving. Sadly, not even
the area where I parked my car had any light seeping through. I faced that
situation for a while until I got close enough to vaguely see the structures,
which were the starting point and parking lot.
My heart started to feel lighter. I
hurried to the car because I was both very hungry and thirsty, and I felt weak
and exhausted. The thing I grabbed from the back of the car was a can of
spaghetti. Once I managed to sit in the driver's seat, hoping to finally have
my first bite, I was disappointed to find that this brand of spaghetti was the
kind that needed a can opener, as it didn't have the pull tab like the tuna
cans I was familiar with. It dawned on me why this brand was cheaper than the
others. I had to get out of the car and go to the back to find a can opener
again. Once the can was opened, whether it was in the dark, due to exhaustion,
or the food being ice-cold, it didn't matter anymore. When your body is at the
point of extreme hunger, the taste is another matter. At least now I was
chewing it in my mouth and slowly swallowing it bite by bite.
After the spaghetti with tomato sauce
was finished, all non-urgent activities were cut out because I felt too
exhausted to want to do anything else. Once I finished rinsing my mouth and
locked the car door, the only place I hoped to reach as soon as possible was
the bed in the back of the car. At that moment, even though there were
restrictions against overnight stays, I didn't care anymore. It wasn't that I
wanted to break the rules, but because it seemed like there wouldn't be any
problems. After all, I wasn't causing any trouble for the area. And due to my
exhaustion, no thoughts popped into my head anymore. So, I easily fell asleep
that night.
The next morning, I woke up to the
sound of a car driving in and parking nearby. Although I woke up later than
usual, it was still early. At that time, I had no watch to check the time since
all the battery-operated devices in the car had completely run out of power.
But that wasn't a problem at all because I had no appointments to rush to. I
walked to the bathroom, brushed my teeth, and washed my face to feel refreshed
for the new day. When I walked back to the car, I saw a tour bus full of
tourists just turning in. They probably hoped to conquer the famous peak today,
but I was already satisfied. Even though I had never stood on the peak, I was
truly content. I was just happy being myself. I got in the car and drove away
peacefully.
Sometimes the allure of a mountain
doesn't lie in climbing it, but perhaps in seeing it from a distance. Because
shortly after I drove out from the Tongariro entrance, I parked my car by the
roadside near that area to brew coffee and enjoy breakfast. Having a hot cup of
coffee in hand, with soft bread and a view of the towering mountains before
me—grand and powerful—was enough to make the spring morning, still cool, feel
bright and relaxing. Even though I have never reached the summit of that
mountain, being at this spot in the morning with a warm cup of coffee in hand,
the fact that I have never conquered the Tongariro summit, despite having
arrived, doesn't affect my feelings at all. The view before me was enough to
make me feel good, having had the opportunity to visit this place at least
once.
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